How to Repair a Sagging Fence Gate



This page shows how to fix a wooden fence gate that is sagging because the post it is hanging from is rotten at the base. If your actual gate is falling apart itself and the post is still good, you could just build a new one to the exact same dimensions. Then, follow the procedure below to rehang it, or try the cable bracing method with this: Stanley Hardware 76-0828 Anti-Sag Gate Kit

However, if your post is the cause, proceed with repairing the wooden fence gate. First, measure the exact height of the top of the post, then remove the gate. Leave the hinges completely attached to it.






Above is the hole after the gate has been removed. I removed the old rotten post and reset a new post in the old plug. Please see the page that shows this process here:Repair a Fence,Also, don't cut the post, set the whole 8 foot length as shown, and obviously don't try to hang the gate before the concrete is dry.









For the surounding wood, carefully remove the old nails with a nail puller so that you can re-nail the wood to the new post. Do whatever you can to leave them in good condition. It is best to use the old nail holes as much as possible and have it remain tight. If it is not completely tight, you can always put in some new nails.

Because you are putting the post in the old post plug, it will end up exactly where the old one was. If any of the wood parts are too rotten to reuse in this fashion, you will have to replace them.






More pictures of how the old wood should butt-up to the new post because you have set it exactly where it was before.












Since you have set the post completely uncut, lengthwise, you will be able to cut it later to the exact right size from the measurement we took in the beginning. You would not be able to tell what that exact size was before because of the usually arbitrary depth of the post plug bottom.

Next, mark off a square all around the post at the right measurement on all four sides then cut it most of the way through with a circular saw on its deepest setting. Be careful! Finish it off with a hand saw so that you can catch the the top of the post when it falls off.









Again, you want to use the nail holes in the old wood as much as possible. You could also put one new nail in, I suppose!

I also like to drill new holes in the side of the bottom runners to toenail the nail as shown; This way, there is not as much chance of splitting the wood, which may not be in the best condition for toenailing. Hold the runner about 1/4 inch out from the post to start the toenail so when you hammer it in, it ends up flush with the side of the post.






I usually use the 4 Inch galvanized nails for the top and bottom runners and the 2 1/2 inch galvanized for the palings (panels.)












I had to reattach a paling to the front of the post in order to rehang the gate.

So remember that the gate latches are still attached to the gate; the whole idea here is to use scrap pieces of wood to to place (balance) the gate exactly where it's going to hang, then pre-drill and screw in one screw on the top and then one screw on the bottom just to get it hanging up.

Remember, the drill bit you use is the width of the shank of the screw not including the threads.









Then all you have to do is just zip all the rest of the screws back into the wood by pre-drilling the holes and using a screw gun. Then, you can remove the scrap wood.






Don't forget to put that spring loaded self-closing mechanism back on so it closes by itself.






VOILA! finished gate.







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